A zipper looks like one part, but it is a small assembly of named pieces. Knowing the names makes a specification unambiguous: the puller and the slider are not the same thing, and a buyer who asks for "a zipper that comes apart" is really asking for an insertion pin and a box.
This guide covers each part and which ones to name in an order or inquiry.
The chain: teeth and tape
The chain is the working length of the zipper: two rows of teeth mounted on two strips of fabric tape.
The teeth, also called elements, are what interlock when the zipper closes. How they are made is what separates the three common zipper types:
- Metal zippers: each tooth is stamped from metal and clamped individually onto a corded edge of the tape.
- Resin zippers: each tooth is plastic, injection-molded directly onto the tape.
- Nylon zippers: the teeth are a continuous nylon coil, sewn or woven onto the edge of the tape.
The tape is the fabric strip on each side. It is sewn into the garment or bag, so its color is usually matched to the surrounding fabric.
The size number refers to the chain: sizes 3, 5, and 8 correspond to a closed chain width of about 3, 5, and 8 mm, which is why size is usually settled first. Our size guide covers how to choose between them.
The slider and the puller
The slider is the part that moves. As it travels up the chain, it guides the two rows of teeth together; as it travels down, it separates them.
The puller, or pull tab, is the part you hold. It is attached to the slider but chosen separately, because it is where most of a zipper's visible style lives: a plain tab, a shaped metal puller, or a cord puller can each be matched to the style of the product.
Sliders also differ in whether they lock. A locking slider holds its position when the puller is released; a non-locking slider moves freely. Which one suits a position depends on the product, and we confirm it for each project.
Top stops and the bottom stop
Top stops are the small pieces at the top end of each row of teeth. They keep the slider from running off the end of the chain.
The bottom stop sits at the lower end of a closed-end zipper. It joins the two rows permanently, so the zipper can open fully without the two sides coming apart. That is what makes a zipper closed-end, and it is the structure used on pockets, pants, and bag compartments.
Open-end parts: the insertion pin and the box
An open-end zipper, also called a separating zipper, has no bottom stop. In its place are two parts:
- The insertion pin, a rigid piece fixed to the bottom of one tape.
- The box, sometimes called the retainer box, fixed to the bottom of the other tape.
To close the zipper, the pin slides through the slider into the box. That lines up the two rows of teeth at the base so the slider can start joining them. When the slider is pulled all the way down, the pin comes out and the two halves separate completely, which is why jackets and coats use this structure. Our comparison of closed-end and open-end zippers goes through where each is used.
Two-way zippers
A two-way zipper has two sliders on the same chain, so it can be opened from either end.
On a two-way open-end zipper, raising the lower slider opens the bottom of the zipper while the top stays closed. This is common on long coats and jackets, where it gives room to sit down or reach a pocket underneath. With both sliders at the bottom, the zipper separates completely like any other open-end zipper.
Two-way closed-end zippers are used on bags and luggage compartments that need to open from either side.
Which parts to name in an order
Naming the parts in an inquiry saves a round of questions. The details that matter most:
- Size: 3, 5, or 8, with a closed chain width of about 3, 5, or 8 mm.
- Material: metal, resin, or nylon.
- Teeth finish: for metal zippers, silver, gold, antique brass, or antique bronze.
- Tape color: matched to your fabric or a color reference.
- Slider and puller: the style of puller, and whether the slider should lock.
- End type: closed-end, open-end, or two-way.
- Length: the finished length you need.
If you are not sure what to call a part, a photo of a reference zipper with the part marked works just as well. Our guide to preparing a zipper inquiry lists what else helps a quotation move quickly.
Conclusion
A zipper is a chain of teeth on tape, a slider that joins them, a puller to move it, and either stops or an insertion pin and box at the ends. Each part can be specified, and most misunderstandings in a zipper order come from two people meaning different parts by the same word.
You can see these parts on real products on our metal zipper and nylon zipper pages. When your specification is ready, send it through our quote page and we will confirm the details with you.